Cotopaxi - Take 2

Left San Augustine on Wednesday morning to return to Cotopaxi. Weather much improved over that we had seen before. Picked up a 2nd guide, Joshua, to join us on our climb. Re-entered the national park, had a quick lunch at Tambopaxi lodge before driving to base of mountain. Hiking to refuge we were treated to a wonderful view of Cotopaxi.

For tomorrow - Cotopaxi seen from the path to the refuge

Dinner at 19:00. Bed at 20:00. Breakfast at 23:30. Set off under clear starey skies early Thursday morning at 00:30 for the summit. What a contrast to the conditions on our first attempt!

90 minutes later, we strapped on crampons at the base of the glacier. An hour later we encountered some massive ice walls just visible in the earliest light of day. Skirting the walls, we carefully picked our way up the mountainside. The route passed over some deep crevasses and past ice caves - a remarkable sight. We were nearing the summit as the sun rose giving us a fabulous view of Illaniza.

Illaniza viewed from (and beside the shadow of) Cotopaxi

Climbing that last 300 meters, we summited Cotopaxi at 07:00 on Thursday morning! We were treated to a wonderful view but stayed only briefly on its windswept summit for some photos.

At Last!!! Cotopaxi Summit

Cotopaxi Crater

Chimborazo across the clouds from Cotopaxi - Back for you later!

Then it was time to scurry down quickly as the snow was getting very wet and unpredictable. Here are some photos of what we encountered whilst climbing.

Much deserved rest after summit

Crags, Clouds and Crevasses

An Amazing Ice Wall

Reaching the refuge at 11:00, we gathered our gear and returned to Hacienda Rumiloma to rest our weary bodies. Whilst we are a bit saddened to have to leave Chimborazo for another day, we have thoroughly enjoyed our time in Ecuador. 3 1/2 Volcanoes will have to suffice for this expedition.

We would like to thank all of the people in Ecuador who have helped us at every stage of the journey (but not the guy who stole Martins crampons!). In particular we would like to thank our guides Ossie and Joshua who made it possible for us oldies to climb and have a great deal of fun! Also our thanks to Amber and the team at Ruminola who do so much to help all the people of Ecuador as well their guests.

Ossie and Josh

To all of you following our little expedition and helping us in our fundraising for Marie Curie Cancer Care, we thank you from the bottom of our hearts! To those who have yet to join us in this wonderful cause, we ask that you give it consideration.

One thing we learned on this trip was how very much one needs a good guide on a difficult journey. Martin had originally proposed a theme of "Pay Up or Die Alone" which we both decided was a tad too direct and macabre. Hence "4 Volcanoes - 5 Nurses." Wishing all of you long life, good health and, when you reach the end of your journey, the support of a wonderful Marie Curie "guide" in the comfort of your own bed.

Cheers and keep giving!

Simon and Martin

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses

Rest, recover and regroup

The weather gods determined that we would not get to the top of Cotopaxi on our first attempt. So we went to the Hacienda San Augustine de Callo for a couple nights of RRandR (Rest, Recover and Regroup).

Nestled in the foothills of the Cotopaxi Volcano, San Agustin de Callo is built on the site of an important ruin. First built In 1440 by the Inca Huayna Capac, it is assumed that it was a temple or a palace. When the Spanish came and wanted to build their hacienda they used the Inca buildings and integrated the hacienda into it. Therefore, the hacienda is a mixture of Incan architecture and colonial style. In almost all of Ecuador, the old Inca buildings were destroyed and the stones used in other construction making this an almost unique building.

Courtyard of San Augustine - Inca Temple

Temple now a chapel

We spent a day touring the local area visiting a local market in search of a mask for the Carter family collection, eating a leisurely lunch and touring an Ecuadorian rose farm. Returned to San Augustine for dinner which is served in one of the Inca rooms which is built of dark stone and features walls 3-feet thick!

Roses ready for export

Dining room featuring 3-feet thick Inca walls

Discussed our itinerary in light of the earlier set-back on Cotopaxi. As Cotopaxi was, in part, the warm up and acclimatization for Chimborazo, we decided to return to Cotopaxi and leave her bigger brother for another trip. In any mountaineering expedition, the weather gods have the last say.

To all of you who have already contributed to our charitable cause, our heartfelt thanks. To those still sitting on the fence, we hope you will help us reach our goal.

Simon and Martin

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses

Cotopaxi - 1st Chapter

Leaving the hacienda behind, we drove to the north gate of Cotopaxi National Park enroute to the base of the mountain.

North Gate with Cotopaxi shrouded in the clouds

The only horses allowed in the park are the herds of wild horses that reside there so it was up to us to porter our gear up the trail to the refuge hut.

Wild horses of Cotopaxi National Park

Climbed the 200 m vertical trail to the hut in high winds and rain. Got ourselves settled in the shelter and encountered our first unpleasant experience - somebody stole Ossie's iPod and Martin's crampons. Ossie ran back down trail to parking lot in attempt to catch the thief to no avail. Luckily, the hut manager had a spare pair of crampons for Martin so we were still on for tonight's climb. Whilst Ossie prepared dinner, saw these Andean Wolves outside the hut.

Andean Wolves

It is off to bed for a few hours sleep and then up at midnight for a 1:00 AM departure. The weather has turned rather ugly. High winds and freezing rain at the shelter. Never the less, we set off under headlamps and all our warmest clothing.

The wind was relentless and it wasn't long before we were coated in a fine layer of ice. Warmth wasn't an issue and we continued up the mountain. Reaching the glacier, we put on our crampons and roped together. Crossed a few cravasses and proceeded to climb. At an elevation of 5,265 m, Ossie said we should abandon our attempt. The weather was getting worse and visibility was very poor. We concurred and returned to the shelter to discuss our options.

Left the shelter under snowy skies and returned to the car. It was off to Hacienda San Augustine for drying out and regrouping.

We haven't quit so please don't quit on us! Your continued support of Marie Curie is greatly appreciated.

Simon and Martin

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses

Rest and recovery day at Hacienda Chilcabamba

Spent a wonderful couple of rest days at the Hacienda Chilcabamba in the northern foothills of Cotopaxi. After a very welcome shower with lots of hot water and a fabulous meal, we got a good night's rest.

Hacienda Chilcabamba

Our guide, Ossie, managed to repair the truck in record time. Whilst he was doing that, Simon and I took a hike to the waterfall we mentioned in our last post. The weather was variable and we treked in both sun and rain with the owner's dogs, Tao and Paxi, named after 2 Inca princesses. The rain failed to dampen our (or the dog's) spirits.

Tao, Paxi and Martin at top of the falls

Simon and the dogs check out the waterfalls

We returned to the hacienda and organized our kit for tomorrow's climb to the mountain refuge on Cotopaxi.

Please continue to help us raise money for Marie Curie! Again, our heartfelt thanks to those of you who have already done so.

Simon and Martin

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses

Up the rocky ridges on Illiniza Norte

After a long slow night in the mountain hut, we awoke to a glorious morning albeit short as the mist soon returned. We woke our guide (who had overslept!) demanding coffee and breakfast.It wasn't long before we were setting off, leaving the hut at 7:10. We began to ascend the ridge glad that the mist stopped us looking down at the frightening drop on either side. Then on to the rockface to scramble to the top. The weather gods were kind and the sun came out to lift our spirits and show us Cotopaxi in the distance across the clouds.

Cotopaxi - Spotted at last 

Summited 5,126 m (16,817 ft) at 9:50 where conditions were very windy. The cloud whipping around us made photographs difficult and our time on top short.

Summit of Illiniza Norte - 2 down and 2 to go

Back down for a quick bite at the hut and then on to the base to pick up the truck and get to the new Hacienda (Chilcabomba). Martin noticed wheels coming off the truck off during the journey so some time spent getting repairs. Finally arrived at Chilcabomba for a great welcome, shower dinner and a warm night's rest.

Tomorrow is a rest day. We hike to the cascadas (waterfall) on the Rio Pita and return to Quito to get supplies for Cotopaxi. This will be our last chance to communicate with you until we get off Cotopaxi on Monday night.

Until then, please continue to help us raise money for Marie Curie! Many thanks to those of you who have already done so.

Simon and Martin

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses

A Cold Night in the Mountain Hut

Thursday morning we spent a lot of time packing and repacking getting ready to leave the comforts of the Hacienda Rumiloma and depart for the mountains. Our guide, Ossie, drove us through Quito and south to the base of Illaniza. There we were met by horses (not for us but for the baggage).

Bags ready to go

Three hours hike up the hill to the mountain hut which was pretty sparse with no heating and very damp. Good supper with Ossie checking us to see we ate enough (otherwise we would have to stay another night in the hut to acclimatize - no thanks). Not much to do so a long night of not sleeping well from 8.00 in the evening.

A quick glimpse of the mountain for the morning from the hut

More tomorrow

Simon and  Martin.

Please keep giving to Marie Curie:

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses

1 Down. 3 To Go

1 InTthe Bag

A great day! Pissed down with rain all night long. Still raining when we woke up. Set off to the start of the climb through country reminiscent of Wales (rain) transitioning into Scotland (rain). Couldn't reach the intended departure point due to muddy roads so we added 200 m vertical to the days climb.

Started slowly and in pain. But soon found a rythm and reached the summit of Guagua Pichincha (4,781 m) - the same altitude of Mont Blanc - at 13:45. A milestone was achieved today by Martin who exceeded his previous record of 4,421 m (Mt. Whitney). Although the weather was less than perfect, we had a great time.

Our Welcoming Committee

Got back to our hotel and had a surprising reception! Tomorrow, we set off for Illinizia Norte. We will be in a mountain hut for the next couple of days and may not be able to post blogs. Next volcano Illiniza Norte (5,126 m) on Friday all being well will be back on Saturday to let you know all the news.

Please! We need your help to grow this project! Good nurses don't come cheap (except to the patients and families they serve) so keep those contributions coming.

 
Cheers,
Simon and Martin
 
http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses