Cotopaxi - Take 2

Left San Augustine on Wednesday morning to return to Cotopaxi. Weather much improved over that we had seen before. Picked up a 2nd guide, Joshua, to join us on our climb. Re-entered the national park, had a quick lunch at Tambopaxi lodge before driving to base of mountain. Hiking to refuge we were treated to a wonderful view of Cotopaxi.

For tomorrow - Cotopaxi seen from the path to the refuge

Dinner at 19:00. Bed at 20:00. Breakfast at 23:30. Set off under clear starey skies early Thursday morning at 00:30 for the summit. What a contrast to the conditions on our first attempt!

90 minutes later, we strapped on crampons at the base of the glacier. An hour later we encountered some massive ice walls just visible in the earliest light of day. Skirting the walls, we carefully picked our way up the mountainside. The route passed over some deep crevasses and past ice caves - a remarkable sight. We were nearing the summit as the sun rose giving us a fabulous view of Illaniza.

Illaniza viewed from (and beside the shadow of) Cotopaxi

Climbing that last 300 meters, we summited Cotopaxi at 07:00 on Thursday morning! We were treated to a wonderful view but stayed only briefly on its windswept summit for some photos.

At Last!!! Cotopaxi Summit

Cotopaxi Crater

Chimborazo across the clouds from Cotopaxi - Back for you later!

Then it was time to scurry down quickly as the snow was getting very wet and unpredictable. Here are some photos of what we encountered whilst climbing.

Much deserved rest after summit

Crags, Clouds and Crevasses

An Amazing Ice Wall

Reaching the refuge at 11:00, we gathered our gear and returned to Hacienda Rumiloma to rest our weary bodies. Whilst we are a bit saddened to have to leave Chimborazo for another day, we have thoroughly enjoyed our time in Ecuador. 3 1/2 Volcanoes will have to suffice for this expedition.

We would like to thank all of the people in Ecuador who have helped us at every stage of the journey (but not the guy who stole Martins crampons!). In particular we would like to thank our guides Ossie and Joshua who made it possible for us oldies to climb and have a great deal of fun! Also our thanks to Amber and the team at Ruminola who do so much to help all the people of Ecuador as well their guests.

Ossie and Josh

To all of you following our little expedition and helping us in our fundraising for Marie Curie Cancer Care, we thank you from the bottom of our hearts! To those who have yet to join us in this wonderful cause, we ask that you give it consideration.

One thing we learned on this trip was how very much one needs a good guide on a difficult journey. Martin had originally proposed a theme of "Pay Up or Die Alone" which we both decided was a tad too direct and macabre. Hence "4 Volcanoes - 5 Nurses." Wishing all of you long life, good health and, when you reach the end of your journey, the support of a wonderful Marie Curie "guide" in the comfort of your own bed.

Cheers and keep giving!

Simon and Martin

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses

Rest, recover and regroup

The weather gods determined that we would not get to the top of Cotopaxi on our first attempt. So we went to the Hacienda San Augustine de Callo for a couple nights of RRandR (Rest, Recover and Regroup).

Nestled in the foothills of the Cotopaxi Volcano, San Agustin de Callo is built on the site of an important ruin. First built In 1440 by the Inca Huayna Capac, it is assumed that it was a temple or a palace. When the Spanish came and wanted to build their hacienda they used the Inca buildings and integrated the hacienda into it. Therefore, the hacienda is a mixture of Incan architecture and colonial style. In almost all of Ecuador, the old Inca buildings were destroyed and the stones used in other construction making this an almost unique building.

Courtyard of San Augustine - Inca Temple

Temple now a chapel

We spent a day touring the local area visiting a local market in search of a mask for the Carter family collection, eating a leisurely lunch and touring an Ecuadorian rose farm. Returned to San Augustine for dinner which is served in one of the Inca rooms which is built of dark stone and features walls 3-feet thick!

Roses ready for export

Dining room featuring 3-feet thick Inca walls

Discussed our itinerary in light of the earlier set-back on Cotopaxi. As Cotopaxi was, in part, the warm up and acclimatization for Chimborazo, we decided to return to Cotopaxi and leave her bigger brother for another trip. In any mountaineering expedition, the weather gods have the last say.

To all of you who have already contributed to our charitable cause, our heartfelt thanks. To those still sitting on the fence, we hope you will help us reach our goal.

Simon and Martin

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses

Cotopaxi - 1st Chapter

Leaving the hacienda behind, we drove to the north gate of Cotopaxi National Park enroute to the base of the mountain.

North Gate with Cotopaxi shrouded in the clouds

The only horses allowed in the park are the herds of wild horses that reside there so it was up to us to porter our gear up the trail to the refuge hut.

Wild horses of Cotopaxi National Park

Climbed the 200 m vertical trail to the hut in high winds and rain. Got ourselves settled in the shelter and encountered our first unpleasant experience - somebody stole Ossie's iPod and Martin's crampons. Ossie ran back down trail to parking lot in attempt to catch the thief to no avail. Luckily, the hut manager had a spare pair of crampons for Martin so we were still on for tonight's climb. Whilst Ossie prepared dinner, saw these Andean Wolves outside the hut.

Andean Wolves

It is off to bed for a few hours sleep and then up at midnight for a 1:00 AM departure. The weather has turned rather ugly. High winds and freezing rain at the shelter. Never the less, we set off under headlamps and all our warmest clothing.

The wind was relentless and it wasn't long before we were coated in a fine layer of ice. Warmth wasn't an issue and we continued up the mountain. Reaching the glacier, we put on our crampons and roped together. Crossed a few cravasses and proceeded to climb. At an elevation of 5,265 m, Ossie said we should abandon our attempt. The weather was getting worse and visibility was very poor. We concurred and returned to the shelter to discuss our options.

Left the shelter under snowy skies and returned to the car. It was off to Hacienda San Augustine for drying out and regrouping.

We haven't quit so please don't quit on us! Your continued support of Marie Curie is greatly appreciated.

Simon and Martin

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses

Rest and recovery day at Hacienda Chilcabamba

Spent a wonderful couple of rest days at the Hacienda Chilcabamba in the northern foothills of Cotopaxi. After a very welcome shower with lots of hot water and a fabulous meal, we got a good night's rest.

Hacienda Chilcabamba

Our guide, Ossie, managed to repair the truck in record time. Whilst he was doing that, Simon and I took a hike to the waterfall we mentioned in our last post. The weather was variable and we treked in both sun and rain with the owner's dogs, Tao and Paxi, named after 2 Inca princesses. The rain failed to dampen our (or the dog's) spirits.

Tao, Paxi and Martin at top of the falls

Simon and the dogs check out the waterfalls

We returned to the hacienda and organized our kit for tomorrow's climb to the mountain refuge on Cotopaxi.

Please continue to help us raise money for Marie Curie! Again, our heartfelt thanks to those of you who have already done so.

Simon and Martin

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses

Up the rocky ridges on Illiniza Norte

After a long slow night in the mountain hut, we awoke to a glorious morning albeit short as the mist soon returned. We woke our guide (who had overslept!) demanding coffee and breakfast.It wasn't long before we were setting off, leaving the hut at 7:10. We began to ascend the ridge glad that the mist stopped us looking down at the frightening drop on either side. Then on to the rockface to scramble to the top. The weather gods were kind and the sun came out to lift our spirits and show us Cotopaxi in the distance across the clouds.

Cotopaxi - Spotted at last 

Summited 5,126 m (16,817 ft) at 9:50 where conditions were very windy. The cloud whipping around us made photographs difficult and our time on top short.

Summit of Illiniza Norte - 2 down and 2 to go

Back down for a quick bite at the hut and then on to the base to pick up the truck and get to the new Hacienda (Chilcabomba). Martin noticed wheels coming off the truck off during the journey so some time spent getting repairs. Finally arrived at Chilcabomba for a great welcome, shower dinner and a warm night's rest.

Tomorrow is a rest day. We hike to the cascadas (waterfall) on the Rio Pita and return to Quito to get supplies for Cotopaxi. This will be our last chance to communicate with you until we get off Cotopaxi on Monday night.

Until then, please continue to help us raise money for Marie Curie! Many thanks to those of you who have already done so.

Simon and Martin

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses

A Cold Night in the Mountain Hut

Thursday morning we spent a lot of time packing and repacking getting ready to leave the comforts of the Hacienda Rumiloma and depart for the mountains. Our guide, Ossie, drove us through Quito and south to the base of Illaniza. There we were met by horses (not for us but for the baggage).

Bags ready to go

Three hours hike up the hill to the mountain hut which was pretty sparse with no heating and very damp. Good supper with Ossie checking us to see we ate enough (otherwise we would have to stay another night in the hut to acclimatize - no thanks). Not much to do so a long night of not sleeping well from 8.00 in the evening.

A quick glimpse of the mountain for the morning from the hut

More tomorrow

Simon and  Martin.

Please keep giving to Marie Curie:

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses

1 Down. 3 To Go

1 InTthe Bag

A great day! Pissed down with rain all night long. Still raining when we woke up. Set off to the start of the climb through country reminiscent of Wales (rain) transitioning into Scotland (rain). Couldn't reach the intended departure point due to muddy roads so we added 200 m vertical to the days climb.

Started slowly and in pain. But soon found a rythm and reached the summit of Guagua Pichincha (4,781 m) - the same altitude of Mont Blanc - at 13:45. A milestone was achieved today by Martin who exceeded his previous record of 4,421 m (Mt. Whitney). Although the weather was less than perfect, we had a great time.

Our Welcoming Committee

Got back to our hotel and had a surprising reception! Tomorrow, we set off for Illinizia Norte. We will be in a mountain hut for the next couple of days and may not be able to post blogs. Next volcano Illiniza Norte (5,126 m) on Friday all being well will be back on Saturday to let you know all the news.

Please! We need your help to grow this project! Good nurses don't come cheap (except to the patients and families they serve) so keep those contributions coming.

 
Cheers,
Simon and Martin
 
http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses
 

 
 

Llamas at the door

Martin, did you call for the porter?

Spent the day with Ossie, our guide making plans for the climbs - still on course to do the 4 volcanoes despite the weather as most climbing will be above the clouds. Vised to Quito for last minute provisions and an opportunity to do a final homage to the God of Kit, Gear and Gadgets much beloved by Simon and Martin. Toured the old town and visited the huge statue of the Virgin of Quito given by Spain as a token of compensation for all the gold they took from Ecuador (not much of a deal as it is made of aluminium!)

Virgin Of Quito seen from old town

All this wet weather has not dampened our spirits. Tomorrow we climb the active volcano Guagua Pichincha to see if the rain has put it out!

Thanks to all the new contributors to our fund raising for Marie Curie. Like your climbers, the momentum is building!

Simon and Martin

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses

If it walks like a duck....

5-day forecast for Quito: Tues - Thunder storms, Wed - Thunder storms, Thurs - Thunder storms, Fri - Thunder storms, Sat - Thunder storms. Great weather.... for ducks! So, we get wet! We're certain there are volcanoes out there somewhere.

Acclimatisation going well. Our hotel's elevation is 11,000 ft. Took a couple short walks today. Tomorrow we will take a city tour in the morning and a hike in the afternoon.

Quito from the hacienda Rumiloma

In spite of the weather, our spirits (like the elevations around us) are high! Contributions have started rolling in and for that, we are truly grateful! Spread the word, good people. We will "quack" on!

Martin & Simon

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses

The Next Great Adventure

4 Volcanoes in Ecuador –5 Nurses in the UK

Simon St Clair Carter and Martin J Wikstrom
Climbing Guagua Pichincha, Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi, & Chimborazo

What do 2 mates accompanying their successful wives to a meeting of powerful women do to keep out of trouble (read: out of the way)? Get lost, obviously! When Simon posed the question, "Do we really want to go to a conference full of women when we could be doing something much more fun like climbing a volcano?" I didn't have to ponder very long. "Of course, we climb!"

Simon pointed out that we were traveling quite a distance for just 1 volcano and asked if perhaps we should climb 4?

Overly influenced by testosterone (as opposed to common sense), I quickly agreed. Only later did I investigate what exactly my friend was proposing. These are some seriously high peaks! However, it was too late to change my mind and engage the gray matter betwixt the ears. I had agreed and the trip was on!

Then Simon (being the more clever of the two) suggested that we should do this for some worthy cause. We couldn't think of a better bunch than the folks at Marie Curie. These wonderful souls provide essential end-of-life care for terminally-ill patients and their families. Most all of us are of an age where we, or ones close to us, have lost a loved one and hospice care was an invaluable support when most needed.

Research commissioned by Marie Curie Cancer Care shows that 64 per cent of people would choose to die at home. In reality only 25 per cent achieve this.

Every year, Marie Curie Nurses make that wish possible for thousands of cancer patients in cities, towns and villages across the UK.

Marie Curie Nurses now care for around 50 per cent of all cancer patients who die at home. They work through the night or during the day to provide care for patients in the comfortable and familiar surroundings of their own home.

Their nurses are also there for families and carers - providing practical and emotional support at what can be an exhausting time. Whilst Marie Curie nursing is always free of charge to patients and carers, it is not free.

Simon and I hope to raise the necessary money to fund 5 nurses for a year. For every £19,000 we raise, the N.H.S. will match it with an additional £19,100 which places a nurse in the field for 1 year. We hope you will help us reach our goal. You can give as much or as little as you like but please help! You can find our fund raising site on the web at:

http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses



There you can track our progress and leave messages of encouragement. Feel free to leave messages here as well.


In a following post, I will provide a description of the mountains we hope to climb.

Thank you,

Martin Wikstrom and Simon St Clair Carter

Planning The Climb - 4 Seriously High Mountains

Guagua Pichincha

4,784 m (15,695 ft)

0°10′16″S 78°35′53″W

Guagua Pichincha and the older Pleistocene Rucu Pichincha stratovolcanoes form a broad volcanic massif that rises immediately to the west of Ecuador's capital city, Quito in the Andes Mountains. Rising to an elevation of 4,784 m (15,695 ft), Guagua Pichincha will be our first ascent - a warm-up!

Many minor eruptions have occurred since the beginning of the Spanish era at Guagua Pichincha, which is one of Ecuador's most active volcanoes. The largest historical eruption took place in 1660, when ash fell over a 1,000 km radius, accumulating to 30 cm depth in Quito. The last known eruption was in 2009.

Illiniza Norte

5,126 m (16,818 ft)

0°39′34″S 78°42′49″W

Illiniza is a stratovolcano located about 55 km southwest of Quito. Illiniza, a potentially active volcano, consists of two snow covered peaks: Illiniza Sur 5,248 m (17,218 ft) and Illiniza Norte 5,126 m (16,818 ft). This will be our second ascent. Its name is derived from  the Kunza words for "masculine hill" but it looks like a "mother of a hill" to me!

The Illinizas are generally thought to be the best acclimatization mountains in Ecuador, and are frequently used as a preparatory climb to higher peaks such as Cotopaxi and Chimbarazo.
 

Cotopaxi

5,897 m (19,347 ft)
0°40′50″S 78°26′16″W

Our third ascent will be Cotopaxi - a statovolcano located abouot 45 km south of Quito. It is the second highest summit in the country, reaching a height of 5,897 m (19,347 ft).

Cotopaxi has an almost symmetrical cone that rises from a highland plane of about 3,800 meters (12,500 ft), with a width at its base of about 23 km (14 mi). It has one of the few equatorial glaciers in the world, which starts at teh height of 5,000 meters (16,400 ft). the mountain is clearly visible on the skyline from Quito. It is part of the chain of volcanoes around the Pacific plate known as the Pacific Ring of Fire.

Chimborazo

6,268 m (20,565 ft)

01°28′09″S 78°49′03″W

Chimborazo is located in the Cordillera Occidental of the Andes of central Ecuador, 150 km (93 mi) south-southwest of Qutio. At a height of 6,268 m (20,565 ft), the inactive stratovolcano is Ecuador's highest summit. Its last eruption is thought to have occurred some time in the first millenium.

Its summit is generally regarded as the spot on the erath's surface farthest from the center of the Earth, at a distance of 6,384.4 km (3,967.1 mi). Chimborazo is just one degree south of the equator and the earth's diameter at the equator is greater than at Everest's lattitude (nearly 28° north), with the sea level also being elevated. So, despite being 2,581 m (8,568 ft) lower in elevation above sea level, it is 6,384.4 km (3,968 mi) from the Earth's center, 2.1 km farther than the summit of Everest.

First climbed in 1880 by Briton Edward Whymper and the brothers Louis and Jean-Antione Carrel, this will be our final ascent. Wish us luck!

We are climbing on behalf of Marie Curie to fund 5 nurses for a year. You can help us raise funds for Marie Curie Cancer Care at this address:
http://www.justgiving.com/Martin-Wikstrom-and-Simon-St-Clair-Carter-4-Volcanoes-5-Nurses